The “perfect” face during the European Renaissance, renowned artists and architects used an equation known as the “golden ratio” to map out their masterpieces. Thousands of years later, scientists adopted this mathematical formula to help explain why some people are considered beautiful. The first test is dividing the length of the face by the width, and the ideal result- as defined by the golden ratio- is roughly 1.6; which means a beautiful person’s face is about 1½ times longer than it is wide. Next, the three segments of the face- from the forehead hairline to a spot between the eyes, from between the eyes to the bottom of the nose, and from the bottom of the nose to the bottom of the chin- are measured. If the numbers are equal, a person is considered more beautiful. Finally, statisticians measure other facial features to determine symmetry and proportion. On a perfect face, for example, the length of an ear is equal to the length of the nose, and the width of an eye is equal to the distance between the eyes.
The face is a three-dimensional object that can be divided into equal parts- the perfect face shape will have equal distance from the forehead to the eyebrow, the eyebrow to the tip of the nose, and the nose to the chin. The goal in corrective makeup is to create equality between these three segments using highlights (light) and shadows/contour (dark), for balance or to change the shape of the face so they resemble an oval, which is considered the ideal face shape.
Highlighting is the process of lightening an area to bring it forward or make it more prominent by either using a light matte or shimmering powder, or cream. While contour is the use of shadows or shading to reduce features on the face, preferably matte products as makeup with shimmer or glitter reflects light and draws focus to the area. The rule of thumb when doing corrective makeup on your face is to use a highlight one to two shades lighter and a contour one to two shades darker than your skin tone.
Apply highlight on the forehead, under the eyes, and on the chin. The highlights accentuate and brighten these areas of the oval face.
Contour is not needed since the oval is the ideal face shape.
2. Round Face Shape
Apply highlight to the center of the forehead and chin to bring the eye more to the center.
Apply contour to the jawline to reduce fullness and from the temple, and to the hairline to lessen the face’s roundness
3. Square Face Shape
Apply highlight on the forehead and on the chin. This softens the strong lines of a square face.
Apply contour to both sides of the forehead and from the jawline to below the ear. This essentially reduces the “four corners” that create a square shape.
4. Oblong/ Rectangle Face Shape
Apply highlight on the chin to attract attention to the center of the face.
Apply contour to the cheeks to reduce the length of the face.
5. Heart Face Shape
Apply highlight to the center of forehead and on either side of the chin to give the face more fullness.
Apply contour at the corners of the forehead and to the cheeks to reduce their width. It should also be applied on the bottom of the chin to soften its pointiness.
6. Diamond Face Shape
Apply highlight to the middle of the forehead and on the chin to emphasize the center of the face. Because the diamond face shape has pronounced cheekbones, however, it does not always need a highlighter.
Apply contour on the outside of the cheekbones to diminish their width.